Just Can't Get Enough

Are you tired of posts about Curitiba yet?

Me neither.

I just can't seem to get enough of that city even though I've visited and posted about it several times before.

We are in our last month of living in Brazil and we knew we wanted to say our final ex-pat good-byes to one of our favorite cities in person. We set off the middle of last week, knowing we would have a long holiday weekend to spend in Curitiba together.

It rained for most of the trip, but somehow that didn't matter because, well, it's Curitiba. The cooler weather and overcast skies just add to the city's charm.

I fell into my normal rut with contentment. I explored the Batel area and enjoyed coffee at Lucca while getting some work done. We ate fondue at Chateau de Gazon and drank Submarinos at the Bar do Alemão.

I've talked about all that before though, so let's move on to what was new and different. I find there is always something that falls into this category with each visit.

Despite the rain and being forced to watch a couple movies during the trip, my husband and I made it out to Botanical Gardens on Saturday. I hadn't been there in over two years and even then it was a very quick visit. We checked out the grounds and stumbled upon some things we hadn't seen before.

There was a new area that was all about plants and the senses. You were supposed to put on a blindfold and then follow the metal railing throughout the area to touch and smell different plants as you tried to identify them.

Quite a cool set up and the whole area was beautifully manicured. We didn't do the blind fold, but we did check out the different plants and snapped some photos.

Next stop?

You guessed it, Parque Barigui so that I could visit Harold one last time and was I in for a surprise! It was feeding time and I got some photos of 19 Capivaras as they munched on the grass near the lake. They didn't seem to mind anyone being around. They were less than 15 feet away! I could have hung out with them forever. I wasn't the only one interested. They were drawing quite the crowd.

Of course, you can't go to Curitiba without getting excellent food and despite our usual repeats we tried a few new places. For example, who knew that a Brazilian restaurant could do Chicago-style pizza so well?

A friend here told me about Michigan Avenue Pizza Bar and considering that I think Chicago-style pizza is one of the best foods on earth I was immediately intrigued, and well, skeptical. So far even the places we've tried in the US outside of Chicago, claiming to have that style of pizza haven't even come close.

When Saturday night came around we decided we would give it a try. We decided to go for two individual stuffed pizzas. Me, the Americano (I mean, why not?) and my husband kept it real with the Mexicana which is actually a Brazilian creation. It has Doritos in it.

The final call – awesome! Not exactly the same, but darn close. It could have used more tomato sauce, but that seems to be a constant issue here. I must admit it didn't hurt that they had a video of a Cranberries concert on the tv for our entire dinner. Considering they are my all-time favorite band and I was eating one of my all-time favorite foods I was quite happy.

In other food, yours truly had the opportunity to try the first frozen yogurt available in southern Brazil, or so claims Yoguland. This modern, colorful little shop recently opened in Batel and it was so good I had to visit twice.

They have two flavors – natural and lichia (lychee). Given the healthy theme the idea is you are supposed to get fruit and granola toppings (yes, they were called “toppings”). Personally, I preferred it plain. I guess I was expecting that sweet, rather fake, frozen yogurt from home, but it was nothing like that. It had the same tartness you get from Greek yogurt, just barely sweet. It was fantastic!

On the second visit we learned the guy taking our order lived in the US for 7 years and just recently moving back to Curitiba. He actually went to the University of Tennessee, not far from central KY. Another “small world” experience.

I can't help but be sad that I won't be going back to Curitiba anytime soon. I'll likely return someday, because as I've mentioned before it tops not only my list for favorite cities in Brazil, but it is on my list of favorites of any city I've visited.

Next post? How our rainy Sunday led to a new discovery – Morretes!

I Could Drive and Drive and Drive

Few words can adequately describe my feelings this week. The weather has been outstanding. Of course, the locals are complaining because it is a bit cool for central Kentucky at the end of May, but I am loving every minute of it. The sun has been shining and everything is green, green, green.

I drove to a friend’s house outside the city last Sunday and I felt like I could have driven for hours. The windows open, the bluegrass, the mares in the fields with all their foals. Horse country is outstanding!

I think driving represents independence to me. I know a lot of people are happy in cities and take advantage of public transportation. In select cities I enjoy that too, but through my experiences living in Brazil I’ve really felt the loss of having a car of my own and driving where I want.

Just driving to the local park alone this week initiated thoughts of days past that brought me to tears. There is so much I like about my new life, and while the things I miss from home seem to grow less with passing time, there are still those things that I will never get over. Driving and not being constricted to a 7 block walking radius are two of those things.

I mentioned horses earlier and I actually took that drive on Sunday to see a horse. My good friend lives on a beautiful piece of property and just happens to have a pregnant Palomino. The baby is just days away and while I was disappointed that I missed seeing this beautiful creature I was happy to go for a walk with the oversized mama, my friend and three friendly dogs.

We spent the afternoon walking the field and catching up. I was so overwhelmed by the country because it has been so long since I’ve been out in it. Not just any country, but country in this part of the US during this time of year. It is beyond gorgeous.

Just a few pictures...

Nothing too exciting today. I thought I'd just post a few of the pictures from my visit to Curitiba last week. Have a great weekend!!

An art gallery in Batel. It reminds me of some of the historic homes back in Lexington.

I stopped in a place called Missouri Cafe for lunch fully expecting it to be Brazilian food in a restaurant with a US-related names. What a total surprise! They had KC BBQ, a NY Reuben and a NO Muffeletta on the menu. Inside there were signs featuring the different cities of Missouri. Then there was a sign that hit pretty close to home. It kind of weirded me out a bit. You know, those coincidences that don't seem possible.

We went to the Coritiba vs. Cascavel futebol game. I think it was the first round of the Parana state tournament so it was a relatively light crowd which I was very happy with. There were some great goals scored so it was a fun game to watch.

Capivaras in Barigui

We spent a couple afternoons in Barigui park during our visit to Curitiba. The islands were overflowing with baby capivaras. We stopped along the bridge to watch them play for a while, then they all started moving in our direction so I took a video.

You can faintly hear them making their guinea pig - like noises. It's funny because they go under the water at one point or another and come back up. You don't realize there are so many there until they start showing their cute little heads.


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Bittersweet

I can safely say that I have learned the true meaning of this word. Every time I leave the US to return to Brazil the feeling overwhelms me. There have been times when I’ve thought this experience was the best decision we’ve made and times when I’ve felt it was the worst decision in the world.

This time I can say I’m adjusting well to being back. Although, I did almost crush the modem a few moments ago when I was having problems with the internet, but other than that things are okay.

I’m not sure if this is because I’m looking forward to experiencing everything I can in the next few months, if it is because I know I’m only going to be here a few more months or a combination of both.

It has helped that I came back to rainy weather, which translates to no blazing sun. I was truly dreading the heat. I know it will be back, but for now I am enjoying this glorious day of rain.

In many ways I’ve fallen into a routine here that I did enjoy coming back to. My days alone have turned into days of work with my writing and I truly enjoy it. I’m back to taking advantage of outdoor eating and I went nuts at the feira yesterday.

I miss home too, though, as is always the case. I had a wonderful holiday with my family. I also miss my lap warmer, Macy Mae. Below is a picture of her in one of my mom’s last minute clearance finds. It was so worth the 49 cents she paid for it.

So back to a normal as I know it, back to regular posts about my adventures here and back to Brazil in general right now. I hope you’ll hang with me these next several months as I continue to try and entertain you along the way.

I'm Thankful For - The Brazil Version

I can’t count the times I’ve been asked if Thanksgiving is celebrated in Brazil. I don’t mind, but I find myself explaining about how it is a only a US holiday (at this time, I know Canada’s is earlier). It just reminds me how we often lose sight of the "why" part of our holidays.

Of course, if we (US Americans) think about where our Turkey Day came from we remember the pilgrims and all that jazz. If I didn’t travel so much I’d probably be guilty of thinking other places celebrate it too.

I like Thanksgiving, but I’ll admit it isn’t my favorite holiday. It is number one for my husband and dad though. Despite the fact that it isn’t my favorite I do love the focus of Thanksgiving and understand why they like it so much. Gratitude is such a powerful expression. I try to keep a gratitude journal regularly so I always remember to count my blessings.

I was thinking about this yesterday and decided to compile my “I’m thankful for” list, the Brazil version. It is easy to get caught up in what we miss from the past, another holiday or another country. Believe me, I do it all the time. Even though we recognize what we appreciate sometimes we don’t dwell on it enough. So here is my dwelling on what I’m thankful for in Brazil.

Blooms Year Round – Summer and winter there is always something in bloom around the city. I’ve seen so many beautiful flowers and trees. It is a great mood -lifter.

Fairs and Festivals – One of the best things about living in Brazil (I’m not sure if this has something to do with being in a small city) is all the festivals. I love the food fests and holiday celebrations, the traditions of Festa Junina (or Julina); there is always something to look forward to.

Foz do Iguacu – Okay, so I actually like the Argentina side better, but these waterfalls are so awe inspiring.

Tropical Islands – I’ve discovered that I have two forms of paradise. One is sitting in a beer garden somewhere in Europe and the other is sitting on a tropical island. The few islands I have to been to in Brazil are amazing.

Capivara (capybara) – You had to know these guys would make the list. Who knew I would like the world’s largest rodent so much.

Parque Barigui – And that leads me to one of my favorite parks in all my travels. I’m not sure what is about it. It is just so wide open with an awesome trail and lots of physical activity going on. Oh, and Harold the Capivara lives there.

New Friends – I never thought I would come away from this experience with new people in my life that I can consider friends, but I have and it is great.

Adventure with my husband – My husband is my best friend and although our time together is limited with his long work hours I love sharing this experience with him and all the adventures we’ve been on together.

Tropical Fruits – The fruits of Brazil give a person a whole new outlook on the possibilities of produce. The list is too long to name each one, but I love the fruits in Brazil!

Shoes – Okay, this is totally materialistic, but I do love the sandals and wedges that I see in every third store along the city streets. Shoes are literally everywhere.

Casual – For us Brazil is the land of casual dress. I have barely worn anything much nicer than jeans over the past 1 ½ years. After my few years of dressing up for an office job I am definitely enjoying this.

Group Exercise Instructors – Some of the best fitness instructors I have had are in Brazil.

Language – I really enjoy the Portuguese language. I think all the different accents I’ve heard throughout the country are intriguing. Even if I don’t always understand the conversations going on around me I enjoy hearing the language.

Thanksgiving is great because even if you don’t celebrate the holiday you can always practice gratitude. I hope I’ve inspired you to think about your “I’m thankful for” list wherever you may be.

Happy Thanksgiving!!

Pretty Much My Favorite Animal

I’d like to introduce you to Harold. (Yes, this is what I have named him.) Harold lives at Parque Barigüi in Curitiba. Not only does the fact that Harold is a capybara make him super-cool, but apparently he owns his own peninsula at the park.

Each time we have gone to the park we see Harold sitting by himself in one specific area. He lies there, striking an interesting pose every now and then, glancing at the people who walk up to him to take pictures.


You see, on the other side of the park, the scene is more like this.

We have only been a few times, but this is always how it is – Harold on one side and everyone else on the other. So I’m trying to figure out what the deal is with Harold. Maybe if you know anything about capybaras you can help me.

Is he just too cool for everyone else? (Perhaps a local celebrity?) Is he a complete dork and no one else likes him? Is he mean and they voted him off the island?

Everything I have read about capybaras says that they spend their time in packs or herds usually lead by a dominant male and often a subordinate male. Maybe it is just the fact that the entire lake is their stomping ground and there is nothing strange about him being there alone. It just seems odd when you see all the other ones hanging out together during the day.

Well, anyway, enjoy the pictures of Harold. He is quite a character.

Sunday in Curitiba

Before our trip to Ilha do Mel, we spent the weekend in what has become my favorite place thus far in Brazil – Curitiba. Just being back there put a smile on my face.

Saturday was rainy, but Sunday was a much better day weather-wise. Considering the fact that the area is often gloomy it was beautiful – sunshine and blue skies.

We headed over to Parque Barigüi which is one of my favorite places in the city. Sunday just happened to be Dia das Crianças, or the day of children. The park was crazy busy with families enjoying all the activities being offered. We were really impressed by what a big deal it was. There were a ton of games, trampolines, rock climbing walls and face painting just to name a few things.

After weaving through kids, exercisers and dog walkers we headed out to the Curitiba Zoo. And I mean headed out, and out, and out. It is much further outside the city than we had expected.

The zoo is definitely a step up from the good ol’ Parque do Inga in Maringá. Here we basically have some monkeys both caged and running free, along with some morbidly obese lions.

The zoo in Curitiba covered a huge area and we were really surprised at all the animals they had there – a zebra, bison, lions, giraffes and hippos. I think my two favorite things were the Onça, a jaguar with the coolest coat ever who also resides on the R$50 bill, and the Ursa de Oculos, a black bear with white circles around his eyes that look like glasses.

I was glad I got to see the zoo, but I don’t think we’ll go back again. As you would expect with most zoos, it was filled with families. However, there was just too much ignoring of commonsense rules going on for me. People repeatedly stepped inside railings, on one occasion to feed a deer-like animal cheetos. I was just waiting for someone be like, hey, this gate is unlocked, lets go on in and pet the tiger.

I also want to mention that one should never underestimate the power of the Brazilian sun. I am usually so good about sunscreen, but don’t often need a lot in Curitiba because of the gloomy weather. Yes, I know sun rays come through clouds, but it has never been a problem before.

Well, I forgot to put it on Sunday and the sun just happened to come out. We roasted. The worst part was that I had a cap sleeve shirt on which gave me the most beautiful farmers-tan. Needless to say not many people will be seeing the pictures of me in a tank top on Ilha do Mel. Total dork!!

Cãominhada!

Pugs, bulldogs, labs, bassets and every mix under the sun!

Late Friday afternoon I met a friend for coffee and she told me about the charity dog walk taking place over the weekend. I’ve been aching for some dog company lately so we made it a point to get up Saturday morning and head over to check out the action.

I wasn’t expecting a large group, but the turn out was huge. Guessing by the numbers on people’s stickers there were a little less than 200 in attendance.

Since the smaller Chihuahua type dogs and puffy breeds are popular around here there were some serious cases of little-dog syndrome going on. It always cracks me up when a dog with a head the size of my fist starts growling and showing its teeth. Some of them were a bit unhappy with the world.

The number of large dogs really surprised me. We saw several labs, some of which were therapy dogs. The breed variety was great too. Much larger than what I had expected around here.

I felt a bit like a loser walking around without a dog of my own, but the event still made my week.

The best part was the organization who hosted the event. APARU raises awareness about animal cruelty and helps protect street animals. You had to donate 1 kilo of food to participate in the event. I’m really looking forward to learning more about them and seeing if there are ways I can help.

Funny thing. When people registered they received a little packet with flyers, chew sticks and a little sealed sample cup of dry dog food. Hmmmm….

Just seemed kind of weird that you donate food and then they give you food back in your packet. Maybe it is just me. I think I would have turned around and donated the little cup back to them.

Oh, did I mention that we saw our neighbor there with their little poof ball that liked to use our hallway as a bathroom. Yeah, it was delightful to see them again.

The walk was a short one, just a few blocks and back again. Some little (and big) guys were pretty worn out by the time we were halfway into it. Many just plopped down in the middle of road and the owners picked them up and carried them on to the finish!

Some of the is information is cross-posted at http://charitymile.com/blog/

It's Her Birthday Again

Today I have to admit I am a bit sad. It is our precious pug's 6th birthday, the second birthday I have missed since living in Brazil.

The topic of dogs comes up a lot when we talk to my husband's coworkers or anyone else interested in the expat experience. Upon telling them we left Macy with our family the response is often, "I could never do that."

Well, I didn't think I could either, but after committing to this adventure we realized it was better for her health and safety that she stay in the States.

She is well taken care of and spends her days in the company of her favorite Golden Retriever.

I honestly miss her everyday and after a year I still can hear her little nails clicking on the tile.

I get to see her in December though and I can't wait. Sometimes I think I offend my family a bit because I express how much I miss her more than I do them!

We'll just say it is equal.

Happy 6th Birthday Macy Mae!

Photo credit goes to my niece who took all these great pictures this summer.